The richest views of Tangier aren’t from its hills—they’re from its secret rooftops. Behind an unmarked blue door in the Kasbah, a spiral staircase leads to a paradise of potted lemons and jasmine. This is Fatima’s garden, where she’s grown basil in old olive tins for forty years. Two streets over, a retired diplomat cultivates roses in the ruins of a 14th-century watchtower. The true marvel? The clandestine network of wooden ladders connecting these aerial oases. At sunset, when the call to prayer rises from below, the gardeners share cuttings and gossip across the alleyways, their hands stained with soil and henna.
