There’s an hour each morning when the Medina belongs to its true inhabitants. Bakers pull glowing rounds of khobz from communal ovens as cats stretch on warm tiles. The call to prayer hasn’t yet sounded, but the water sellers are already making […]

Just beyond the city’s clamor, the hills remember older rhythms. Winding roads reveal Berber villages where time moves to the crunch of olives under stone presses. The air here smells of wild thyme and damp earth, a sharp contrast to […]