By day, this crescent of sand belongs to sunbathers. But come midnight, the beach transforms. Fishermen mend nets by hurricane lamp light while students strum guitars in the ruins of a 17th-century fort. The bravest wade into bioluminescent waves that spark like liquid stars. Local legend says if you whisper a secret to the foam, it will carry it to the underwater palace of the sea saint Sidi Kacem himself. Follow the scent of woodsmoke to find the tea vendor who’s been pouring mint-infused glasses here since the 1960s—his pour is still a perfect three-foot arc.
