Beneath the modern resorts, the city thrums with echoes of its decadent past. The Hotel El Minzah’s bar still has the piano where Tennessee Williams sipped martinis, though few notice it between the potted palms. Some say you can catch strains of Django Reinhardt floating from certain basement clubs on humid nights. We know which unmarked door leads to a speakeasy-style lounge where the cocktails come with stories of Bank Heiress-era scandals. The real magic happens when local Gnawa musicians fuse their ancestral rhythms with these jazz ghosts – but you’ll need to be shown where.
